Hidden Gems of the Tenderloin, Beyond Gentrification

Its surprising how personal routines & preconceptions can sometimes limit what we experience. Last Friday was a perfect case, with the night starting out similar to any other. 

The plan was to swing by a new dinner spot before heading to a friend’s birthday. I proceeded to find a fresh restaurant near the party, but everything did not go as planned.

Mensho Tokyo - The "Intuitive" Choice

Mensho Tokyo. The place was almost too good to be true. It was a highly recommended, trendy ramen place right in the heart of San Francisco & it had vegan options to accommodate my girlfriend. This, I thought, would for sure settle our stomachs for the night. 

However, upon arriving we saw that some 40 other people had the same notion. The wait was easily 60min+ and required physically standing in line—the horror, the inhumanity. To have made matters worse, we realized we had just step foot in the heart of the Tenderloin. 

The Tenderloin - Our Initial Impression

For those of you that may be unfamiliar, the Tenderloin has widely been considered as a neighborhood plagued by crime and open drug use. With a reputation that precedes it, some individuals—myself included—avoid passing through and rarely venture to explore the neighborhood firsthand.

The tenderloin has been at the center of debate regarding gentrification. The high influx of wealth coming from tech has helped develop the larger San Francisco area,  but the Tenderloin has remained relatively insulated and remains a place that many avoid. 

Change in Plans

So, me and my girlfriend agreed that neither of us were willing to wait in the Tenderloin for over an hour.  Out-of-place in our formal clothes, we frantically scrolled through options on Yelp & found a convenient alternative.

I asked my girlfriend, “Just a few blocks down these San Francisco hills...can you make it in your heals?” She gave a nod, and we bolted. If only this was where the story ended.

After some time walking through unchartered territory…I had to give the worst news any girl walking in heals has to hear. We had been walking in the opposite direction. 

We deferred to Uber.  Feeling vulnerable and needing a place to wait, the two of us took shelter in the first place we saw. It just so happened, the first place we saw was an unassuming restaurant that housed a priceless gem.

The Black Cat

With the intent to just wait out our Uber, we were still curious about the food, drinks, and seating in case it was worth staying; at this point our plans were already up in the air. The host asked us if we wanted to be seated down the hall, or in the basement with live jazz. The latter immediately caught our attention.

The host escorted us to a scene straight out of La La Land. Presented ahead was a dimly lit lounge with a 3-piece band ensemble reminiscent of classic jazz groups from the 1950s. The food and drinks were amazing but what won us over was the ambiance. It goes without saying, we canceled that Uber ride.

How could a place so unassuming foster an ambiance that was so captivating? 

The Black Cat had been at that location since 1905, and it could be considered as one of the few original bars of San Francisco. It embodied San Francisco’s true culture. Having survived the test of time, it stood resilient to the influences of the changing times.

The Actual Tenderloin

The Tenderloin is more than just a neighborhood of vice. Contrary to our initial sentiments, it is saturated with pockets of culture & character. This is understandable given its rich history.

In the 1950’s the Tenderloin was a neighborhood for musicians and their influences are imprinted in many of the original restaurants, bars, and Saloons. It just takes an adventurous and curious spirit to unearth the culture that remains.

The Threat of Gentrification

A large reason for why musicians were able to flourish in the Tenderloin in the mid 20th century was because of the low cost of living. This allowed individuals to place their creativity first and contributed towards further enriching culture in the area. 

Today, we are seeing a cultural sterilization where career and salary take precedence over individual expression. Much of San Francisco has becoming increasingly less affordable to teachers and other working-class professionals. This has largely influenced the types of jobs future generations in the area decide to pursue, and it impacts the range of individuals who can move to the city. Moreover, the higher cost of living has displaced existing residents to move elsewhere—taking with them the cultural history that has defined San Francisco. 

The fear of many is that if Gentrification is allowed to continue unmitigated, we will be left with a bland city absent of any culture of its own. The existence of these gems may be finite. 

What We Can Do

My own biases would have prevented me from ever experiencing the Tenderloin had it not been for us accidentally discovering The Black Cat. I now feel an obligation to share my experience with others so they don’t fall victim to those same biases. 

Some may argue that gentrification is inevitable and that it is a natural byproduct of organic growth. Though we may not be able to stop gentrification altogether, we still owe it to ourselves to engage with these communities while we can & to preserve culture and heritage.

What are your thoughts on the topic? Let me know!  

Follow @tenderloin.resident for an authentic glimpse into the Tenderloin.